{"id":464,"date":"2017-02-26T13:04:03","date_gmt":"2017-02-26T18:04:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/santiagoinlove.com\/en\/?p=464"},"modified":"2018-05-18T04:56:49","modified_gmt":"2018-05-18T09:56:49","slug":"saint-jean-pied-de-port-roncevalles-now","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/santiagoinlove.com\/en\/saint-jean-pied-de-port-roncevalles-now\/","title":{"rendered":"From Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles… now! (February 2017)"},"content":{"rendered":"

In Saint Jean Pied de Port, the number of pilgrims slowly increases<\/strong>. For now, all walk through Valcarlos because the high route is still closed… But you can feel it: pilgrimage season is about to start!<\/p>\n

What if, in this post, I’ll take you on a walk to help us wait? Let’s go on the Camino between Saint Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles…\u00a0through\u00a0Valcarlos and the high route!<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Croix
On the high route, the Camino leaves the road and goes into the mountains<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

From Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles through\u00a0Valcarlos<\/h2>\n

At the moment, this itinerary is the only one that is legally open<\/strong> on its full length. It first goes along the Nive of Arn\u00e9guy, until Arn\u00e9guy<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0Valcarlos<\/strong>. A zigzag route rises then to the\u00a0Iba\u00f1eta pass<\/strong>, before it goes down to Roncesvalles.<\/strong>\u00a0Despite winter, there are pilgrims giving their best<\/strong>\u00a0all along the\u00a0way!<\/p>\n

Roncesvalles is very quiet: there are very few pilgrims or visitors there…<\/p>\n

\"valley
Scenic view on the valley of Valcarlos from the Iba\u00f1eta pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Valcarlos
Camino sign on Valcarlos route: pilgrims ahead!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Valcarlos
Arriving in Valcarlos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Valcarlos
Valcarlos pilgrims climbing towards Roncesvalles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Roncevalles
Very quiet collegiate church of Roncesvalles!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles’ church under a winter sun<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

From Saint Jean Pied de Port to the Thibaud cross<\/h2>\n

Even before leaving Saint Jean Pied de Port, signs remind me that the high route is closed<\/strong><\/a>. (It is until\u00a0March 31st! \ud83d\ude09 ) The road is closed for real… Local people assured me that the road is ok now to take by car: and off I am!<\/p>\n

I slowly rise\u00a0to the g\u00eete of Orisson<\/strong>, still closed for now. The route weaves from one side of the mountain to the next. I reach the\u00a0Virgin of Baikorri<\/strong> and a bit later, the\u00a0Thibaud cross<\/strong>. There, the Camino leaves the road and invite me to follow its small path through the pastures. Today, I’ll just stop there. With the n\u00e9v\u00e9s, the smoke and the fog,\u00a0I”m actually not so tempted. And it wouldn’t be really safe anyway!<\/p>\n

\"winter
The high route to Roncesvalles is still closed…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"road
“Road closed” ~ A reminder a few kilometers after Saint Jean pied de Port: the high route *really* is closed!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"mist
Towards Orisson, mountain and mist<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Orisson\"
No one at Orisson’s refuge: it’s still closed for now…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Virgen
The Virgen of Baikorri, alone in the mountain for still a month<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Croix
At the Croix Thibaud, the Camino leaves the road and goes on mountain paths<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

And on these 2 Caminos, fog, snow and slash-and-burn!<\/h2>\n

In the Basque Country right now, the weather can be foggy… to the point one can’t see really far ahead! Thankfully, the fog was quite thin<\/strong>\u00a0during my walk.<\/p>\n

At altitude, stakes are still high to get snow. On the last weeks, a mild spell left mostly n\u00e9v\u00e9s and snowdrifts<\/strong>. The paths seem clear, but caution<\/strong> is yet not an option!<\/p>\n

Finally, the\u00a0slash-and-burn tradition<\/strong>\u00a0(pastoral fires) make hiking quite unpleasant.<\/strong> As long as one sees the fires from far away, it can be beautiful.<\/strong> But it only takes to be around the burned area or to get some smoke in the face to think the opposite<\/strong>! On the high route of the Camino, burned pastures, dense smoke and stifling air just made me turn around… It’s a good thing the fires\u00a0will be over<\/strong> when the route opens again!<\/p>\n

\"Basque
The Basque mountain with snow, fog and smoke at the end of winter, on the high route after Saint Jean Pied de Port<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"misty
At altitude, the view is veiled by the mist<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"sooty
N\u00e9v\u00e9s colored by soot and fog after Saint Jean Pied de Port<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"burned
After the slash-and-burn tradition, on high route of the Camino<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"fog
No doubt thanks to the strong burning smell! It’s no fog, but slash-and-burn smoke!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"slash
Slash-and-burn tradition in the Basque Country: still a beautiful show… from far away!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

I hope you enjoyed the walk! See you soon on the Camino! \ud83d\ude09<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Saint Jean Pied de Port, the number of pilgrims slowly increases. For now, all walk through Valcarlos because the high route is still closed… But you can feel it: pilgrimage season is about to start! What if, in this post, I’ll take you on a walk to help us wait? Let’s go on the …<\/p>\n

From Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles… now! (February 2017)<\/span> Read More »<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":482,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[229],"tags":[299,288,302,204,303,203],"yoast_head":"\nFrom Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles... now! 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