{"id":234,"date":"2016-09-03T18:18:32","date_gmt":"2016-09-03T23:18:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/santiagoinlove.com\/en\/?p=234"},"modified":"2016-12-16T08:22:37","modified_gmt":"2016-12-16T13:22:37","slug":"le-puy-route-2016-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/santiagoinlove.com\/en\/le-puy-route-2016-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Le Puy route to Aubrac, 2016: part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

In this post, the rest of my adventures on the Le Puy route! This 2nd part<\/strong> tells you all about my Way from Le Villeret d’Apcher to Aubrac<\/strong>… as well as how I kept the Spirit of the Way with me after it was all over!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Looking for the\u00a01st\u00a0part of this tale, from Le Puy to\u00a0Le Villeret d’Apcher?\u00a0This way, please!<\/a><\/strong><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

Itinerary, planned and done<\/a><\/p>\n

Some mini-stages: La Roche, Saint-Alban et Les Estrets<\/a> \u00a0 \u00a0~ \u00a0 \u00a0Speeding up to the 4 chemins<\/a> \u00a0 \u00a0~ \u00a0 \u00a0Magnificent Aubrac… pure kick to end well<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 ~ \u00a0 \u00a0Camino extension<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Ladybug<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Itinerary: planned and done<\/h2>\n

This year, I was supposed to walk on the Le Puy route and stop in Figeac<\/strong>. James clearly had something else in mind, because things didn’t go as planned<\/strong>. I stopped in Aubrac. I walked the part marked with a plain line and rode (by bus) the part marked with a dotted line.<\/p>\n

\"2016<\/p>\n

This post is all about the 2nd\u00a0part of the route I actually walked<\/strong> (red on the following map): I’ll tell you about my adventures (and misfortunes!) between Le\u00a0Villeret and Aubrac<\/strong>. Enjoy and Buen Camino<\/em>!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/a>\"2016<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Some mini-stages: La Roche, Saint-Alban et Les Estrets<\/h2>\n

Sunday, August,\u00a07th: to La Roche<\/h3>\n

\"2016This morning is a slow waking up<\/strong> with my mate, followed by a generous breakfast. It’s time for “goodbyes”, because I’ll be walking alone for the rest of the Way. While my sweet half walks back to Saugues, I repack my bag and carefully wrap my foot<\/strong>.\u00a0I don’t bother to set a goal for the day anymore<\/strong>: I my mind suggests Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, my foot reminds me he<\/em> will decide of the stage when\u00a0he<\/em>‘ll have had it.\u00a0I’ll just walk and see where I’ll get to!<\/strong>\u00a0I eventually stat the day with this state of mind, limping on the Way.<\/p>\n

I’m on an unknown stretch<\/strong> today<\/strong>. When I walked this route last time, I took the road to avoid the Domain of the Sauvage<\/strong>. It was a ~3 miles shortcut! But this time, I’m determined to go and see this famous place on the Le Puy route. The path to go there is very nice<\/strong> and for my greatest pleasure, it goes through the forest. The arrival at the domain is not as enjoyable… It’s a long country road in full sunlight, that thankfully goes through a beautiful scenic view.<\/p>\n

\"LeThe\u00a0Sauvage itself is an impressive building! After\u00a0a quick look around, I plan a well-deserved break and a longer visit<\/strong>. I order some snack and settle outside. I watch pilgrims and tourists coming and going and I enjoy the view… until I realize how late it’s become!\u00a0My order has been\u00a0forgotten!<\/strong>\u00a0I decide to leave despite the promise of a quick service. I hit the road again and\u00a0eat the big piece of bread I’ve been given as an apology.<\/p>\n

\"leThis break is now having\u00a0an unexpected effect on me<\/strong>… Lounging outside makes me want to take a nap and my foot came to like inactivity.\u00a0I can’t say I’m moving forward a lot!<\/strong> I eventually reach St-Roch’s\u00a0fountain and chapel, where I take 2 good other breaks. I lounge there (again!) an I enjoy the\u00a0fresh and miraculous water offered by the saint<\/strong>. Quite obviously, I won’t walk much more today. I hesitate over camping on the spot, then\u00a0decide to have a warm night at La Roche<\/strong>, a\u00a0little less than\u00a02\u00a0\u00a0miles ahead.<\/p>\n

It turns out to be a very good decision, as I end up in a very pleasant accommodation.<\/strong>\u00a0Moreover, the hostess and the\u00a0company is nice!<\/strong> Once again, I enjoy a big empty room. Un-honored reservations then enable me to have an unexpected dinner. This evening is a perfect example of the Spirit of the Way… Thanks to our hostess and to my fellow companions!<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"le\u00a0 \"podiensis<\/p>\n

Monday, August 8th: to St Alban<\/h3>\n

This morning, departure is an extension of yesterday’s evening. Some are already gone (for a long time!) when I come downstairs, but some are still there. We have some last exchange before I leave. What a change, I’m not the last one to go!<\/strong> The day is likely to be nice and once again, I’m off with no plan for the stage<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"2016My foot is still really painful…<\/strong> I stroll quietly, enjoying the landscape, breaks and encounters. I witness a spectacular fall, chat with other strollers, get invited for a drink. (THANKS<\/strong>, by the way, you went so fast I didn’t have time to say it!) The idea of a stage in St-Alban-sur-Limagnole slowly sinks in<\/strong>, until it becomes a clear resolve.<\/p>\n

“Slow but steady” has become an understatement. I’m now slower than a sloth sleeping<\/strong> and I’m very fine with it. I fully enjoy\u00a0the landscape, have many many breaks and meditate on the virtues of slowness. Others pilgrims pass me faster than ever… I only regret not to meet again anyone I meet. The good side\u00a0is, I\u00a0always meet very interesting new people!<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"PodiensisI arrive soon in St Alban and I try another small stretch I avoided last time<\/strong>. I took\u00a0the main road into the town, but curiosity drives\u00a0me to follow the Way’s signs. It’s now certain: I won’t do it again!<\/strong> This way is\u00a0quite unpleasant: longer, on the road and without shade. The only interest (historical) is the hospital and the castle, that can be visited later, once cleaned up and rested!<\/p>\n

I end up in a very nice\u00a0guest<\/del> pilgrim house, managed by a very nice hostess.\u00a0Bernadette wins my award of the best accommodation of my Way 2016!<\/strong>\u00a0I begin by some scrubbing before I get some rest and enjoy this peaceful and warm place. And for once, I’m the first one to sign in!<\/strong>\u00a0I chat with Bernadette, then I’m off to find an open store (which is hard in France on a Monday, especially in the countryside!). Once I’m done, I visit the church and enjoy a private and touching singing session there (thanks to you, unknown signer!<\/strong>). I finally have a coffee and watch the life that goes on in the street.<\/p>\n

\"PodiensisWhen I’m back at the accommodation, it’s been filled up while I was gone<\/strong>. Dinner is another\u00a0perfect example of an evening touched by the Spirit of the Way<\/strong>. Talks are joyful and interesting and like often,\u00a0I end up making translations<\/strong>. I’m used to English and Spanish, but I swear that never since my first German lessons (in kindergarten!) did I practice German so much!\u00a0Rita and\u00a0Joseph, THANKS for your patience and your praises<\/strong>… even if\u00a0my ears still find them hard to believe!<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"2016<\/p>\n

Speeding up to the\u00a0\u00a04 Chemins<\/h2>\n

Wednesday, August, 10th<\/h3>\n

\"PodiensisExtended atmosphere again this morning… After goodbyes and an unexpected gift<\/strong>\u00a0(THANKS<\/strong>, this book is just great!), I’m the last one to leave.\u00a0My foot seems to have stopped sulking: I finally walk without pain!<\/strong> I still keep going smoothly and checking\u00a0on my foot’s mood. When I reach Aumont-Aubrac,\u00a0I decide for good that my foot is doing better<\/strong>. I can try a longer day without fearing the aftermath of its\u00a0bad mood! I have a long break<\/strong> in town: visit, coffee outside and\u00a0for the first time, reunion with some known pilgrims!<\/strong> It’s a pleasure of the Way I happily welcome, as I realize\u00a0I missed this particular side of the Camino<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

I have the feeling I’m flying over the way<\/strong> when I start to walk again. It’s not entirely true, of course, but how would a sloth feel if it were going at snail speed? I enjoy the afternoon, have many breaks and visit La-Chaze-de-Peyre’s chapel I particularly like.\u00a0It’s becoming late when I finally arrive at the Quatre Chemins<\/strong>, a famous place on the Le Puy route and my stop for the night.<\/p>\n

The place is nice, the host welcoming and caring<\/strong>. Rare fact, he lets\u00a0free use of the washing-machine<\/strong>. Let me tell you, there is a lot of fuss around the thing and no room left on the\u00a0washing line! Most of the pilgrim already know each other, but we all share a nice evening. I’m however surprised to ens up alone in the common room at 9pm<\/strong>. Everyone’s\u00a0gone to bed! When I decide to go to sleep too, I try to keep as silent as possible… which fails<\/strong> when I discover my bed is covered by my neighbor’s stuff.\u00a0 Thankfully, no one is sleeping (at least I think so) and they nicely clear the bed.<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Magnificent\u00a0Aubrac… A pure kick to end well!<\/h2>\n

Thursday, August 11th: to Nasbinals<\/h3>\n

When we wake,\u00a0some excuses are made<\/strong>. Obviously, I also\u00a0made it hard for my neighbors to fall asleep<\/strong>… A big first for me, and I’m sincerely sorry!\u00a0<\/strong>After a slow packing, it’s finally time to go.<\/p>\n

If the\u00a0Quatre Chemins are so famous, it’s because it marks the entrance into the region of Aubrac<\/strong>. It means new and magnificent landscape to come<\/strong> during the day! Even better piece of news,\u00a0my foot is still willing to bear me without pain<\/strong>. Today’s walk promise to be very pleasant!<\/p>\n

\"PodiensisThe Aubrac opens before me and spreads as far as the eye can see. Landscape of rocks and fields, bright light, thousands of colors and endless wind… This nature remains wild despite the efforts made by man to smooth it.\u00a0The plateau is an enchanting place<\/strong> that doesn’t hide its rudeness nor its treasures.\u00a0I deeply enjoy the most impressive spots<\/strong>, despite a surprisingly big flow of pilgrims. I’m still\u00a0shocked by the rudeness<\/strong> of most\u00a0people, who seem to have lost their ability to smile or even to say a basic “hello”. I get over this pitiful fact and\u00a0I walk with\u00a0a contemplative state of mind<\/strong>. I have frequent breaks in-between which I stuff myself with wild raspberries. The day passes by with a surprising speed and bring me innocently to my stage for the day, Nasbinals.<\/p>\n

\"PodiensisMaybe is it because of the contrast between wild nature and touristic village<\/strong>, but I don’t really appreciate the place. On the contrary,\u00a0the accommodation and its manager are lovely!<\/strong>.I visit a bit and do my groceries before I lose patience with the tourists. I go back to the accommodation and have a very nice evening with hikers and pilgrims.\u00a0Some very interesting meeting and the surprise to meet Laurent\u00a0again<\/em>!<\/strong> Once more, a top-level topic conversation leads us to go to sleep at a quite un-pilgrim-like time!<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

Friday, August 12th: to Aubrac<\/h3>\n

I decide to walk a mini-stage to end my Way<\/strong>, despite my Olympic shape. Plus,\u00a0I know what is coming<\/strong> and I absolutely want to have time to enjoy it! I slowly hit the road, to\u00a0 take the Way in more than to spare my foot<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"PodiensisDuring my last walk, I managed to do this stretch entirely alone… I still can’t understand how, but\u00a0I had the whole Aubrac plateau for myself!<\/strong>\u00a0It surely didn’t happen this time, but rather the contrary. The low of pilgrim is very important again, even if it dosen’t take anything from the beauty of the stage. We’re walking across\u00a0vast fields, through herds of \u00a0the elegant breed of Aubrac cattle.\u00a0A very pleasant stroll to end my Way with grace!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Aubrac (this time, the village) is a very touristic place… I make my way through pilgrims, hikers and tourists to reach the accommodation. Again, I’m the first one to show up. I have the honor to unlock the historical monument that hosts us for the night!<\/strong> The English’s Tower is indeed the public\u00a0accommodation of the village, a pretty unusual place to sleep. I take my time to settle before I go out again to\u00a0become a tourist myself<\/strong>. As a extreme luxury (as I see it), I decide to\u00a0celebrate the end of my Way<\/strong> at the local restaurant.<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

\"Podiensis<\/a>\u00a0\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0Camino extention<\/h2>\n

From Saturday, August 13th and on…<\/h3>\n

\"PodiensisThis day starts with a pilgrim-like sleep in<\/strong>: waking at about 7am and slow packing. The air smells like the end of the Way…<\/strong>\u00a0The bag-transporter that will drive me to Figeac set our rendez-vous at 10am. It’s a bit short, but I have enough time to eat\u00a0a slice of tart from Germaine’s place<\/strong> and to get\u00a0her famous stamp<\/strong>! An gigantic and delicious breakfast that will easily keep me full until the next meal!<\/p>\n

Getting in the transport and doing the journey quickly becomes an adventure in itself<\/strong>. Uncertainty about the reservation, race from one accommodation to the next, surprises with the bags and other saucy stories… It’s actually a true insight into one of the hidden reality of the Way<\/strong>! The drivers are very nice; the vehicles are a little scary. The first one has squeaking breaks, the second one gets a flat tire. I reach Figeac with\u00a0a deeper understanding on the bag transportation service<\/strong>. And\u00a0some admiration and gratefulness for the workers<\/strong> who take care of our stuff in the shadow.<\/p>\n

\"PodiensicI’m finally in Figeac, a stage of the Le Puy route I remember clearly<\/strong>. No sweat to get there this time, no accommodation to run after. I meet Pierre, a old pilgrim friend<\/strong>, to have some vacations at his place. We walk a bit in the city and I recognize some significant places. We then drive to\u00a0Limogne-en-Quercy<\/strong>, another village on the route of Le\u00a0Puy that is also near my Pierre’s place.\u00a0One\u00a0advantage to visit a pilgrim is to be able to talk about the Way with someone who will not get tired of it<\/strong>. Our talks are also levels and topics that allow me to\u00a0step out of the Way gently<\/strong>.\u00a0My Camino softly stops here, until I come back next time!<\/p>\n

\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Here is the tale of my many adventures on the Le Puy route, between Le Puy and Aubrac (and Figeac!), in August of the year 2016!<\/p>\n

And you?<\/strong>\u00a0Were you on the Way this summer? What were the places, events or thoughts that stood out?<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In this post, the rest of my adventures on the Le Puy route! This 2nd part tells you all about my Way from Le Villeret d’Apcher to Aubrac… as well as how I kept the Spirit of the Way with me after it was all over!  <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":240,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[238],"tags":[66,79,80,269,271,270,90,96,87,98,272,99,101,105,273,260],"yoast_head":"\nLe Puy route to Aubrac, 2016: part 2 - Santiago in Love<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"My vacations 2016 are over, I'm just back from the Le Puy route: travel diary of my 10 days on the Way to Aubrac. 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Tuesday, August 9th: to Les Estrets<\/h3>\n

The day starts just like the day before: we meet and extend the good time we had yesterday. As I decided to do\u00a0a very short stage, I take my time and enjoy<\/strong> the last moments with my companions-of-an-evening. We all cheerfully wish each other farewell before we all part on our own Ways<\/p>\n

My foot is still mad<\/strong>, so I keep going slowly. I’m on anther “stroll-day” on the Way! To my opinion, today’s stage (and until the 4 Chemins) is a transition between the regions of Margeride and Aubrac<\/strong>. Beautiful landscape, brief encounters, invite to a pic-nic (thanks!<\/strong>) and lazy breaks make my day.\u00a0A rainy forecast<\/strong> is the only thing that pushes me to walk a little bit faster at the end of the stage. (And I mean, like a sloth rushing to its nest for a nap \ud83d\ude09 )\u00a0After a last and unpleasant technical slope going down, I eventually reach my accomodation in Les Estrets. Once again, I’m the first to arrive<\/strong>: I’m really not used to iand it feels weird! The rain starts shortly after and won’t stop until the next morning… lucky me!<\/p>\n

I’m comfortably settled on a couch and I enjoy a quiet afternoon<\/strong>. I witness the arrival of my daily companions, all more or less worn and soaked… Gripping talks take place<\/strong> before, during and after dinner. The conversation\u00a0slowly switches to top-class topics and last long into the night<\/strong>. Reason and a certain need for sleep eventually send us to bed. Thanks<\/strong> to everyone for this nice evening;\u00a0special thanks<\/strong> to you, Laurent and An…Onyme (rats! I don’t know your name?!!?), for this very deep and outstanding exchange!<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\"Podiensis\u00a0\u00a0\"2016<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/a>\"Podiensis<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n